Dog Care Information

Please note: These are basic training techniques designed to help you improve your relationship with your new companion. If inappropriate behavior persists, we recommend that you consult a dog trainer or behaviorist, as most behavioral problems can be rectified. It is important to catch problems early because the more the animal repeats the negative behavior the longer it will take to correct it.

Our Behavior & Training department has also implemented a Help Hotline, so if you need help with your animal and would like to speak to one of our behavior and training specialists, call 202-375-7744.

Transitioning a new dog into the home
Crate Training
Inappropriate Chewing
Positive Reinforcement
Looking for a Dog Trainer/Training Class

Transitioning a new dog into the home

Bringing a dog into a home from a shelter environment can be stressful for new dog guardians. Dogs typically go through a “honeymoon period” for a few weeks, adjusting to a new schedule, new food, new family and new environment, and testing the waters as they go! The key to a successful adjustment is to micro-manage the dog during the first weeks in the home. Avoid leaving him unsupervised as housebreaking accidents or inappropriate chewing or destruction can occur. Crate training is highly recommended (please see our crate training instructions) for this adjustment period. If you cannot supervise the dog during this time, when you aren’t home or even when you are, crate him; it is far easier to start on the right foot than to try to reverse negative behaviors that have already become habits.

During the first few days, you should allow your dog to acclimate himself as he needs, providing a quiet spot (or crate) for him to adjust as the family interacts around him. Limiting his social contact with neighbors and friends, and new environments like the dog park or sports games, will provide him the least amount of stress. It is important to continue being social with him in interactive play, and get him well exercised, however, don’t overload him with too many new things. The first weeks are a bonding period, so schedule plenty of playtime and calm time for the whole family to enjoy and participate in. Once the dog is adjusted, it is important to slowly acclimate your dog into new environments and meeting new people; socialization is extremely important throughout your dog’s life and should begin once his transition period is over.

Crate Training

Crate Training is highly recommended for successfully housebreaking a puppy or an adult dog. Whether bringing in a new dog, or retraining an existing dog, crate training is a simple, humane method. Here are some things to keep in mind when crate training:

• Wire, plastic or aluminum all work equally well—it’s merely up to you and your dog’s preference. Some dogs want to see everything around them (i.e. a wire crate), while others want the comfort of a closed crate.
• Make sure there is just enough room for your dog to turn around and lie down comfortably. It is very difficult to train with a crate much larger than your dog. If purchasing for a puppy, either get a puppy crate (and get a new crate as the puppy grows) or get a crate that will be large enough for the puppy as an adult, and section off the crate in the beginning.
• Don’t put water inside the crate with the dog. Instead, attach a sipper tube on the outside of the crate so the dog can lick at it throughout the day.
• Initially, do not put any blanket or bedding in the crate, since the dog may chew on it; if you learn that the dog is not a chewer, introduce the bedding later in a supervised manner.
• Do put a toy in the crate with the dog. We advise using Kong products or sterile bones, as they are nearly indestructible and, when they are “stuffed” with food, they are a great mental and physical relief for high-energy or anxious dogs.
• Do put the crate in the busy location in the home, like the kitchen. The dog needs to be able to see the activities of the home and get used to the sounds and smells associated with the family. Never put the crate in the garage, bathroom or basement - dogs are pack animals and want to be with their families - denying them this interaction will severely affect their well-being.
• Do feed the dog in the crate. Dogs naturally want to be clean, so they will not eliminate where they eat and sleep. By establishing the crate as their “eating station,” you’ve established one more place for them not to do their business.

The key to crate training is regular management, which will include the entire family. The first member to stir in the morning is responsible for immediately taking the dog out of the crate and outside to do his business. The dog should then come back in for his meal and water in his crate - pups should get three meals a day and adults, two. Once the dog has finished his meal, return him outside to eliminate again. When the dog urinates or defecates outside, the dog should always be immediately rewarded with praise and treats. After returning from outside, he can play in the house while the family gets the day going.

This process (minus the meals) should be repeated at least every four hours for puppies and at least every six hours for adults. Always remember that the crate is a training tool. Like every tool, it can be used properly for success in aiding good behavior or it can be misused, and be completely ineffective. Crates are only the aid for training a dog in housebreaking, relieving anxiety or curbing inappropriate chewing. Once the dog can be trusted unsupervised in the house, the crate no longer needs to be used (however, most dogs prefer that you keep it around as they like their own ‘den’ to escape to when the house gets overwhelming). A properly crate-trained dog is a happier, better-adjusted member of the family.

Inappropriate Chewing

Chewing is a normal part of dog behavior. However, every dog needs to be properly taught what is appropriate and what is inappropriate. Whether you’ve adopted an adult dog or a teething puppy, your dog needs to be provided the basic chewing essentials in order to instill positive behavior. Kongs, Nylabones, rope bones, stuffed dog toys, and sterile bones are all appropriate chewing objects that will engage your dog.

Kongs and sterile bones can be “stuffed’ with dog food, dog biscuits, treats or even healthy human foods such as carrots. Kongs can also be frozen with water inside (or with chicken broth), or a slice of cheese can be melted inside of the cavity. Please note that it is important to keep your dog on a consistent diet, especially if using Kongs on a frequent basis. Stuffed Kongs and sterile bones can be left for a dog either in the crate or in the house while you are away.

Rope bones, Nylabones and stuffed toys should only be given under supervision, depending on your dog’s intensity with chewing. We do not recommend rawhide products due to the risk of the rawhide getting lodged in the throat (rawhide becomes very wet and pliable and can easily stick to the back of the throat). With active chewers, a large rawhide bone may be ingested in minutes and lie in the stomach for days before having to be surgically removed.

If your dog has plenty of proper toys and chewing items available, but is still being destructive, there is probably another underlying problem. Consider the amount of exercise he is receiving; the amount of interactive playtime with the family; the amount of social time he has with his canine playmates (either in the home or at the dog park); and his anxiety level when left alone. All of these factors can play into inappropriate chewing, and the key to avoiding a negative behavior is to stop it before it starts - make sure your dog has adequate physical and mental stimulation before leaving him in the home unsupervised.

Positive Reinforcement

The key to a well-trained, happy, and social companion animal is positive reinforcement. Whether you are talking about training a parrot, a guinea pig, a cat or a dog, animals react with eagerness and happiness when positive reinforcement is used. Essentially, a reward system should be established with the animal, normally praise - touch and food (or maybe a toy for finicky eaters!) - so that a reward is given for positive behavior. Treats or toys are used to lure the animal to a positive response. This way, the animal earns the reward. Unfortunately, most “dog trainers” still use other methods, which are oftentimes very harsh and damaging to the dog and his relationship with you and other people.

Looking for a Dog Trainer/Training Class

• Research the trainer before signing up - there should be no surprises after you enroll.
• Ask for their experience and training; the Association for Pet Dog Training is currently the only association that offers accreditation for positive reinforcement training.
• Do not take a trainer’s “word for it” that they use positive reinforcement; most dog trainers do not practice or even understand the concept. Again, attend the class that you want to enroll your dog in and talk to guardians after class.
• Do not enroll in any classes that promote leash jerking, shock collars, prong collars or choke chains. There are a variety of positive reinforcement aids available, including Halts, Gentle Leaders, the Sensation Harness, flat collars, “Greyhound” collars or “Lupine” collars.
• The trainer should encourage praise with your voice and touch just as much as with food (or toys). While you will not always have food with you, you want to establish behaviors to last a lifetime.
• Do not let any trainer convince you to use any method other than positive reinforcement.
• Above all, you and your dog are going to class to have fun as much as you are going to learn manners. If you realize you or your dog are not having fun, there is probably something wrong with the trainer or the class.